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Old 11-14-2010, 03:33 AM   #45
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Join Date: Oct 2007
Location: A-town, Australia
Posts: 633

Originally Posted by gwok View Post
well like i said, unless your guitar has an immaculate setup, chances are what you "should" need to do, arent the same as what your actually gonna need to do

if you can make a recording of an open E and G, barred G, and say an E in the open A shape (7th fret) that's sounds great tuningwise - then either your a wicked guitar tech, or you know one
I used to dream of being able to do that, and like you, thought it was something you would have to have mega dollars or black magic to achieve.

I had only ever owned 3 relatively budget guitars until I built one myself. All 3 bought guitars suffered from the problems you describe (each one had less problems as I got a more discerning ear). I spent a fair bit of time playing with bridge saddle screws, but always ended up having to compromise. I now know that the issues I experienced were caused by misformed nuts (as described by someone earlier). For the guitar that I made, I used a roller nut, and I spent quite a bit of time playing it before I screwed it into position. The results were night and day compared to my favourite of the previous 3 guitars.

I'm NOT saying that a roller nut is the answer to your problem, but I AM saying that almost certainly a different nut is going to blow your mind (assuming you've already exhausted the possibilities of saddle screw adjustment). If you can set the intomation such that all fretted notes are in tune, but the open string is not in tune, it's a pretty dead giveaway where the problem is.

On a side note, with my limited experience, it seems like using heavier gauge strings results in less of the "note is sharp at the transient". Can anyone else confirm this?
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